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LRMs can certainly have an effect on a load compared to normal Large Rifle primers.What's your opinion regarding using Large Rifle Magnum primers to ignite the powder in the 6.5mm Creedmoor case? I have no standard-power LR primers and I'd bet the farm that Scheels doesn't have any, either...
I'm guessing the LRM primer throws a larger flash through the powder column. I doubt the temperature of the flash is a lot higher than the flash from a standard-power primer-- just that the flash is larger. A "bigger bomb," if you will. Part of my case prep is to chamfer the inside of the primer hole. I'm telling myself the chamfered hole will allow for the flash to spread itself into a wider funnel. The chamfering tool also enlarges the primer hole a bit, making it identical from case to case. All my cases are trimmed to the length the Lee Precision case trimmer provides. All the mouths of all the cases are chamfered inside and outside. Just waiting on what our members have to say about the possible use of Magnum versus Standard primers before we take the next step...LRMs can certainly have an effect on a load compared to normal Large Rifle primers. If the load is worked-up from a safe margin, it can work.
Alrighty, then! I'll use the Large Rifle Magnum primers I have. I'm not concerned about their high cost: I guessing I paid fifteen to twenty dollars for the 1000-count box I've had since January of 2007.Mag primers don't have a larger flash or more power. They work on magnum loads of slow-burning powders by providing a longer burn. ... Other than the higher cost, I would not avoid using them in standard loads.
My box is from January of 2007, so mine are of the optimized type. Now I must concern myself with using a spherical powder. I discovered a nearly-full bottle of Alliant 4000-MR, which some source I do not recall at this moment said was a good one for the 6.5mm Creedmoor. Seems the only problem the source had with it is that it didn't flow throw the powder measure or powder funnel like Shih-Tzu through a goose. I always tap the rim of my powder funnel to make sure that the entire charge goes into the case. I learned to do that when I was dropping sixty-some grains of stick-type powders into my 358-caliber mildcat. One charge of that all over the bench certainly elicited some language that a novice nun shouldn't hear...Prior to 1989, CCI used the first option in Magnum Rifle primers. After that, we switched to a mix optimized for spherical propellants that produced a 24% increase in flame temperature and a 16% boost in gas volume.
As Forrest might say...
"That is all I have to say about that..."
You can use dryer sheets to help minimize static cling. Ball powder loves to stick to everything so you won't make it perfect but somewhat better.My box is from January of 2007, so mine are of the optimized type. Now I must concern myself with using a spherical powder. I discovered a nearly-full bottle of Alliant 4000-MR, which some source I do not recall at this moment said was a good one for the 6.5mm Creedmoor. Seems the only problem the source had with it is that it didn't flow throw the powder measure or powder funnel like shih-tzu through a goose. I always tap the rim of my powder funnel to make sure that the entire charge goes into the case. I learned to do that when I was dropping sixty-some grains of stick-type powders into my 358-caliber mildcat. One charge of that all over the bench certainly elicited some language that a novice nun shouldn't hear...
For bullets under lots of neck tension, a collet style bullet puller is what works best. I like Forster but others work as well.Seated my first-ever Hornady 143-grain ELD-X bullet into one of my 6.5mm Creedmoor Starline Brass cases. I didn't charge it with powder because I was testing and tweaking as to how deep to seat the bullet. Once I'd determined that, I tried to use my kinetic bullet-puller to recover the bullet. I couldn't get it out without hitting so hard that I feared I'd break it. I don't remember using red Loc-Tite when I was testing for bullet depth, but it sure feels like I did. I don't have a puller for 6.5mm bullets, so I may have to bend the neck a bit to loosen the bullet or... grab the bullet with a Vise-Grip and ruin it. The bullet is not crimped, but it's sure in there dam-ned tight...
Earlier today I ordered a 6.5mm collet-style thang to use in my RCBS puller. Customer reviews indicated that it pulled the bullets without buggering-up the exteriors. Total was $21-something-- about the same as the gas to go to Scheels and buy it right then. At least two hours of high sun and 87-degree weather avoided. Puller will be here in a few days.For bullets under lots of neck tension, a collet-style bullet puller is what works best.
Neck tension is one of those variables that affect accuracy. When it's high, it is challenging to get consistency. I use gauge pins or mandrels to adjust my necks to a less grippy diameter.