Guns, Gear, Accessories, Etc: What did you buy today?

[Whisky Tahoe]

Thanks. I've called them a "reloading tray" since I started using them a little over forty years ago. I have a bottle of H4350. I've finished the case prep for the first loads and have started a thread to ask if Large Rifle Magnum primers can be used in the 6.5mm Creedmoor. I'm going out for Chinese buffet shortly; hope to see some responses regarding the LRM primers upon my return. Thank you, gentlemen...

Answered my own question...

 

[Federer-Is-God]

I'll start, though I actually bought this a couple days ago

I've wanted one of these in red since the day I first saw one, a Ruger MKIV 22/45 Lite.

View attachment 2320

Do you still have it? Have you been happy with it?

That's one of the .22's I'm considering buying...

 

[nvshooter]

A 20 MOA Picatinny scope base for my Ruger American Predator in 6.5mm Creedmoor. Will be delivered to my door for just eight bucks. Right near forty bucks, total. Costs me more than eight bucks in gas to drive to Scheels in Sparks-- and they may not have one. My plan is to install a huge (22" long; 30mm tube) 10-40X Chinese scope onto the rifle. I am fully aware that such a scope is not a Zeiss nor a Nightforce. If I can hit a squarish, blocky human silhouette from 600 yards and hear the ring of its 1/2" steel... I'll be happy with it. Then we'll push it out to 800 yards...

I've had the rifle for two months, and still ain't fired it. Have a hundred cases ready for powder and bullet. Have no idea as to where is my machine rest and my cleaning rod. Have to clean the barrel before that first shot, don'cha know...

Above scope base from shopruger.com

Also looking for a sloped base for my lefty Tikka T3 in .30-06 Springsteen. The thread about the 6mmARC has got me to thinking about putting a new barrel on the Tikka in that caliber. I have a picture of it on my phone, but it seems to be impossible to get it from the phone into my Pictures file. It's dam-ned good-looking in its lefthand Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole in Applejack Red...

 

[nvshooter]

A 20-MOA Picatinny scope base for my Ruger American Predator in 6.5mm Creedmoor. . .

Have to clean the barrel before that first shot, don'cha know. . .

Above scope base from shopruger.com

The scope base came several days ago. I opened the FedEx envelope and saw it was a 20-MOA. I used a few words my mother never taught me, and thought I'll send it back and get the 30-MOA-- which I believed I ordered. I thought I went for the 30-MOA base because one reviewer said he could ring the steel at a mile with his Ruger American (also in 65.CM) having its 40-MOA base. Two miles is a long way to walk in the desert heat of Nevada, so I believed I ordered a 30-MOA base and resigned myself to hits at 1200 to 1600 yards. After looking back and seeing what I actually did order, I have to face the awful reality that a 1463-metre shot is gonna require quite a bit of holdover. The 30-MOA base is the same price as is the 20-MOA so maybe a few months down the road, I'll spring for the 30 and convince myself that I learned a valuable lesson.

My left-bolt, left-ejection Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole stock for the Ruger American arrived from Pahrump either today or a few days ago. Color is "Pepper Gray" laminate. Came with a little baggie of extra parts. I have yet to look at these parts too deeply, but I think they are to have the stock be compatible with AICS clipazines. My rifle is currently fit with a flush-mounted 3- or 4-rounder from the phackery. I want a long magazine for it because a "high-capacity clipazine" drives libturds to soil their pan'nies in public places. That's always a hoot!

 

[nvshooter]

The scope base came several days ago.. .. .. .. I want a long magazine for it because a "high-capacity clipazine" drives libturds to soil their pan'nies in public places. That's always a hoot!

Ruger attached the 0-MOA scope base so tightly that the very tip of my tiny Torx wrench snapped off when I attempted to remove the OEM base. The minuscule tip got stuck in the screw, but a few rude words and the point of a sewing needle got the thing out. I guess I'll have to pay a gunsmith to remove the base.

The extra parts in the baggie are to seat the action in Y-shaped steel journals, to provide a trigger guard and to retrofit the magazine to the stock. I guess Boyd's looked at it and decided to have AICS clipazines work in the stock wasn't feasible.

The torque on the action screws is something to which one must pay attention. I had mine snugged-down kind o' tight by hand, and the bolt would barely operate. Had to loosen them up less than a turn, I'd say. The directions say 30 - 35 inch-pounds. I have an F.A.T. wrench; I'll worry about the action torque once I can get the OEM scope base removed.

 

[nvshooter]

The Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole stock came with a small allotment of bedding epoxy. How do I keep the action from being epoxied into the stock, should I decide to bed the action? Is there some sort of silicone releasing agent for this that is sprayed or is wiped onto the action?

 

[Sunky Heribeck]

@nvshooter Johnson's paste wax works great, as does KIWI shoe polish.

 

[nvshooter]

Johnson's paste wax works great, as does KIWI shoe polish.

Is it wiped on, like you'd do for polishing a car? Or can it be brushed on, like you'd do for painting a small area? I think brushing it on would get plenty of it onto the surface of the action, but would any ridges and troughs be formed because of a good slathering-on of the stuff?

I have yet to shoot the gun. It may not even need bedding.

I think it's a good-looking rifle. I really like the Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole stock. This one was $235 delivered. I was dam-ned lucky to have found one, down in Pahrump, NV. I think Boyd's no longer makes this stock because they don't list it on their website.



Well, that came-out a lot smaller than I expected. Limited to 480 pixels, so this is what we get. The color is "Pepper." No Applejack Red to be had. No Sky Blue to be had, either. The stock uses the original Ruger clipazine. I added the evil "silencer." It's not the dreaded A2 "birdcage" silencer, so earplugs are required when shootin' this rod...

 

[Sunky Heribeck]

You can apply either by hand, cloth, brush, etc.

You will defiantly want to bed the action in that stock. Also, check to see if the barrel will free-float. If not, do a bit of sanding to the channel until it does.

If you have never bed a rifle before, read/watch some info on the procedure. It's not overly difficult but knowing what to do before you start will make it easier and the results will be better.

 

[nvshooter]

Also, check to see if the barrel will free-float.

I did, and it does not touch the stock in any location other than where the action is situated. I can push the barrel to one side, and see the gap get wider and narrower per the direction in which I apply the force. That was so very nice of Boyd's to do that for we who buy their stocks. I have at least three in the Featherweight Thumbhole configuration. I have a fourth one on a 10/22 that I believe is called a Barracuda. That last one might not be a Boyd's at all, but it's dam-ned good-looking, too...